Pan moore



(No Model.) 3 Sheets--Sheeiz4 1.

G. GHABOT, G. REHPUSS 'su E. B. MOORE. BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 439,109. Patented Oct. 28, 1830.

(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 3.

C. GHABO'LYG'. REHPUSS 81; E. B. MOORE.' BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

YPatented Oct. 28, 1890.

1" f "ij f INVENTDFIs 'me 'wams Preis m., mum-mno., wAsn UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE'.

' CYPRIEN CHABOT AND GEORGE REHFUSS, OF PHILADELPHIA, AND EDWARD BLACKFAN MOORE, OF WEST CHESTER, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNORS TO SAID EDWARD BLACKFAN MOORE.

BUTTON-HOLE SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 439,109, dated October 28, 1890.

Application led February l5, 1887.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, CYPRIEN CHABOT and GEORGE REHEUss, citizens of the United States, residing at the-city of Philadelphia,

State of Pennsylvania, and EDWARD BLACK- FAN MOORE, a citizen of the United States, re-

siding at Test Chester, in the county of Ches-` ter and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in But- 1 o ton-Hole Sewing-Machines; and we do herebyl declare the following to be a full, clear, andexact description of the invention, reference.; being had to the accompanying drawings, which form part of this speciiication.

Figure l is a plan of bed-plate of sewingmachine partly broken away with the feedslide and clamp thereon. Fig. 2 is an inverted plan of under side of feed-plate partly brokenl away on scale enlarged from that of Fig. l. 2o Figs. 3 and 4 are perspectives of details pertaining to feed-slide. Fig. 5 is a perspective of feed-slides shown in dotted lines and mechanisms for operating the rotary disk of said slide. Fig. 6 is an inverted plan of under side of bed-piece of machine partly broken away, showing operative mechanism. Fig. 7

is aperspective of loop-destroying finger and its operating-lever. Fig. 8 is a vertical section of throat-plate, showing loop-destroying 3o finger and its operating-lever. Fig. 9 givesa sectional view of the throat-plate, two needles, and loop-destroyer; Fig. lO, a cam on main shaft E, with side cam, lever, loop-destroying finger, and spring.

Certain parts of these improvements relate particularly to that class of machines in which a button-hole stitch is formed by the conjoint action of two needles-anupper needle and lower needle-and have for their obj ect to pro-l Jro vide a construction whereby the thread-loop of the upper needle will be kept from being drawn too tight around the lower needle, so that when withdrawn the loop will be suiiiciently large to permit the lower needle to pass up without forcing the goods up from the level of the throat-plate, and also when the stitching of the button-hole is completed and the upper thread cut the action of withdrawing the goods causes the end of the thread Serial No, 227,716. (No model.)

that is cut to pass down through the goods, 5o thus destroying the loop and preventing the stitching from unraveling. There are other advantages resulting from this loop-destroying linger passing through the throat-plate, as its action is near the top of the throatplate, and thus reduces the quantity of thread to be drawn up by the take-up to a minimum which is of the greatest importance in making a good button-hole.

Having reference to the drawings, L is a 6o loop-destroyin g finger, which is intermittently moved transversely in an opening o o in the side of the throat-plate Z. Said loop-destroying finger is fitted to move lengthwise back and forth in the inclined opening o 0 in the 65 throat-plate Z, and is connected at one end to lever IWI, which is fulcrumed at 'm on the under side of the bed-plate of the machine, and is connected to a spring N, which has one of its ends attached to said bed-piece. A cam 7o P on main shaft F of the machine presses against a stud m on lever M, and with the spring N communicates a vibrating motion to said lever and an intermittent reciprocating movement to the loop-destroying finger L. The movements of loop-destroying finger L relatively to those of the needles are such that when the upper needle is descending the loop-destroying nger is out or withdrawn;

vbut as the two needles ascend the lower nee- 8o dle, which is curved, having passed through the thread-loop thrown out by the upper needle and passing on up over the top of the upper needle just as the point of the lower needle reaches the throat-plate the loop-destroying finger L is thrust forward between the two needles, intercepting, the thread-loop of the upper needle and retaining it until after the upper needle has reached its highest elevation. Vhen the point of the lower needle 9o reaches the top of the throatplate, it practically stops until the upper needle has passed above the foot-plate and -preferably reached its highest elevation. This enables the operator to remove the fabric without interference with the needles when the machine is stopped. When the machine is again started, the lower needle moves up quickly and drops sufiiciently to throw out a thread-loop for the upper needle to pass through in its descent; but the moment the lower needle passes above the throat-plate in its upward passage the loopdestroying linger is Withdrawn, leaving a sufiiciently large loop for the needle to continue its upward passage Without forcing up the edge of the material that is being stitched. Vhen the stitching of the button-hole is completed and it is ready to be removed from beneath the holding-clamp, the thread of the upper needle is cut or broken near the fabric through which it has passed. The loop-destroying finger L being still in the loop of the thread beneath the fabric as the latter is drawn away, the cut end of the thread is drawn down through the material, destroying the loop, and thus preventing the stitching from unraveling.

What we claim as our invention, and for which we seek Letters Patent, is-

l. In combination, the stitch-forming and cloth-clamping mechanism of a button-hole sewing-machine, its throat-plate, the said stitch-forming mechanism comprising an upper needle a3 and a lower needle a4, an intermittently-moving loop-destroying finger L, and means for causing the same to intercept the thread-loop of the upper needle c3 and to retain the same until after the said needle has passed above the throat-plate, substantially as shown and described.

2. The combination, with the stitch-formin g mechanisms of a sewing-machine, said mechanisms embracing a straight upper needle a3, located above the bed-plate and adapted to pass through the fabric, and a curved lower needle a4, located beneath the bed-plate and adapted to move over the edge of the fabric, but both conjointly operated above and beneath the bed-plate, and adapted to pass alternately through the loops thrown out by each, and a throat-plate Z, having in addition to the usual opening through which the needles are operated a slot or opening o o, located on the side and at an angle to the opening for the needles, of the loop-destroying fingerL, and means for intermittently moving said finger in said slot or opening o o, and causing said finger L to intercept the thread carried by upper needle a3 and hold it until needle a3 has passed above the throat-plate, substantially as described.

3. The combination, with the stitch-forming mechanisms, the loop-destroying finger L, and the throat-plate Z, having the slot or opening o o, of the pivoted lever or rod M, to which is attached loop-destroying finger L, stud M', cam P, spring N, and by which several means or their equivalents loop-destroying linger L is intermittently moved forward and backward in opening o o in throat-plate Z, and means which cause it to intercept the thread carried by needle a3 and hold it until needle a3 has passed above thc throat-plate, substantially as described.

In testimony that we claim the foregoing we have hereunto set our hands this 12th day of February, 1887.

CYPRIEN OHABOT. GEORGE REHEUSS. EDWARD BLAOKFAN MOORE.

Witnesses:

EDWD. WHEELER, JOHN H. FAsY. 

